gone penguin
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This is a map for surfers that are not so die hard. If you do not want to kill yourself with 8-ft super steep wall in the well known surf spot with Pros + Semi pros, this is the map to follow…
I am east coast surfer who does not surf all year long like some of die hard surfers with thick 8mm wetsuits.

For example
I would not surf in North Shore Hawaii in winter, but love small rolling wave in Haleiwa during the summer month. I would not surf in Bathehba in Barbedos, but loved sandy beach in Freight. Got the idea?


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Mexico | Baja Sur

you should go to: ZIPPERS. There is a "The Surf Hotel & Spa" own by Mr. Mike Doyle. Its between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. It would be great, if you can stay there, then you have the best learning wave of entire Baja in the front of you! But if you want to just go for a session, don't worry. There is a parking area in the front of hotel, and you can go though the Path. (sorry the wave were so good, and forgot to take picture...) The break is right, and it break like Waikiki. Slow and fun. Be careful on rocks. Rocks are everywhere when you are riding the last waves in. People are very friendly, and not much localism at all as it is a beginner's spot. There is a surf rental at beach for $35USD/day.


you might not be into: Playa CERRITO, by Todos Santos.
Jan 10
Mainly right break. You can paddle out by rocks, and this strong current will take you out without even paddling. Be careful with rocks, and current circle around, and all the sudden, you might be on top of it. Not fun, if that happens. I was told in the summer is not the good season to be surfing at this spot as south swell mess up clean waves that hits all year long. We waited 4 days, and finally had some small days which was OK to surf in the morning. 2 surf rentals at beach $20USD/day, and a few surf camps offers rentals at camp. I got very good discount by renting a board weekly from the camp I stayed.


Mexico | Nayarit

you should go to:EL BORREGO, in San Blas.
Jan 10
Its a beautiful soft Long board beach break. The sand goes all the way and beach is beautiful. When I was here, (end of July) for a few days, the water was very warm, and all the waves were messy and closing out till sunset session. If you are paddling out on right peak, there are hardly ever anyone surfing. You can catch left & right on right hand peak. You can catch it and ride it all the way in while waves breaks 3 times... till you touch your toe on sand.
All the locals seams to stay at left peak. Though I found all the Mexican Local very nice here. They smile and keep including you to paddle over white water...
on the beach, in other hand, be careful who you rent surfboard from. There are a couple of options of rental boards here. The price, if you are Mexican, about 20peso/session. If you are from US, or any 1st world country, some wants 80peso/day, 50/40/hr. Not much Aloha spirit there. The one guy who rents the board, Hector, seams very nice, and his boards selection looks very professional. He kept on telling us his boards are great. He was not lying either. His boards are well conditioned, (he also had surf tech 10-12 ft boards) and new rental boards. In other hand, some shop only had dinged up boards with 2 fins (with different size fins), heavy, old boards... I guess there are boards for everyone.

In the Winter, you might want to go to: SAYORITA.
Jan 10
I was told from October to Feb. this breaks and create perfect long board break here. A guy we met on the beach Pepe told us it become over 4m wave. That sound nice. I see the potential... when we were there for 2 days, it shaped up nicely every morning I would love to come back here in the winter.
The local guy Antonio said, if you want to surf Points, there is a local pecking order, but if you want to surf the peak (the day we left, there were at least 10 people puddling for a wave...), its for everyone.
In the front of the peak, there are a few surf rentals. We only spoke to a place, they told us 250peso/day for rental... all huge long boards. (I guess you need it on this knee high wave). I wish we can bring my long board on motorcycle..

Jan 10

There were so many beautiful beaches with amazing waves and no surf shop on them all the way though the cost of Michoacan. They were perfect waves with no one shitting on the water.


One of the world known surf town PUERTO ESCONDIDO was all about surfing! There were always someone surfing any time of the day. There are three main breaks. The most know and main beach, ZACATELA, the place if you are not the great surfer, or you have death wish, you do not paddle out.
Jan 10

Then LA PUNTA, a small point break on south point of Zacatela. This break is so much fun. It works better in the morning and low tied, but if there are swell, it become perfect double and triple overhead. Only the left here, unless if you want to ride short one in the front of lifeguards. (this photo was taking at smallest day)
Jan 10

Then when La Punta is too big or too crowded, there is CARRIZALILLO. The beginner break. It is a great long board break which has left and right, though right looked very rocky... It works the best at low tied, but there are rocks where you want to be sitting to take the biggest wave. (about 6ft face) And local guys will tell you that the best not look down... If you do not want rocks, you can sit among surf school, but when the clean up set comes you are being tossed between white water and 16ft boards flying out of nowhere. Also, if you are sitting with surf school, the instructors will tell you to go catch 50 peso waves at far point after a few waves. (which I agree, and I wish they will tell that to some wave hugs at La Punta)
1


El Salvador | Playa Tunco (La Libertad)

When we pass by, (Middle of Sept) it got hit by a HUGE SWELL, and I was out of water for a bit. La Libertad is a surfing paradice. You can surf anywhere if you are good. If you are OK, like me... you are stuck at one right pint break in the front of fancy hotels with very nice friendly surfers. The point break is softer so paddle out during this 6FT Swell at high tied. (the tied changes at least 6-8ft here, crazy!! At high tied, there are no beach to sit, and at low tied, you can play FootBall...) The thing about El Salvadorenos on surf break (I can only speak about the point at Playa Tunco) are, they are so nice! They are like Hawaiians. They shear the waves, and they give you waves. They push you and coach you. It's amazing. All I had to do was paddle out, and one guy gave me a perfect soft wave (prob. little too small for him) and rode all the way in to the other side where you do not want to paddle out. It took me a while to figure out the rip, and it was little scary coming out of water in the big swell. The beach break was double overhead.
When you are sitting at a bar in the front of the river in Playa Tunco, from left:
Beach break: breaking both left + right, but more on right side
River mouth beach break: breaking toward left toward big rock
Left at big rock: Very shallow and fast and very scary looking... and rocky. A lot of local kids.
Point break: that I LOVED.
Anyway, if you are good surfer, go now, like September. There are wave everywhere. There are a few break I listed below... but if you are good, you can keep on walking down to the left, and every 100 m, there are break. Happy surfing!!
P.S Local surf map noticed the beginner season is Nov - Feb... but do not know for sure.
Aloha.

Playa Tunco


Nicaragua | San Juan Del Sur | Playa Remanso

I had one of my best time here at Playa Remanso where all the bigger get shipped out from town, instead of die hard Playa Madera. Remanso breaks in hight tied the best, unless if you like to get nose dived over double overhead white water covering on top of you. The beach is wide, and breaks left , left & right, and right. It breaks everywhere and local guys are very sweet. They normally sit in the middle, but I surfed with them a couple of days. Just smile, say Hola. 1st day I was there, I tried to go around a local guy paddling out, and burn a guy's ride, but they are all friends, so I was in. They kept on tossing me a wave, saying "ella, ella, go go gooo!" This photo was taking on my 2nd day, about head height waves and occasional double overhead coming in every 3 min for about 5 hours.

Playa Tunco

We went to Playa Madera to check out Madera Surf Camp, and it was Crystal Cooking Getho. All the guys were hanging out behind a kitchen stoned, (the guys who works there) and the one who is staying are totally head strong die hard surfers who only used 10 of the same words (including the dude, sweet, and everything else that surf world dicided to use a lot these days) for the half hours we were there. It had no ALOHA there. One guy told us that when tied comes in, it goes even bigger. Well, the day we were there, it was easily triple overhead and was away too strong for me. And there were anyone who I would count on getting rescued either. So it really was a camping area, on beach. But not a Surf Camp.

A local guy told me later days, that when Playa Madera is big enough and break twice, inside waves are fun and nice... but I never felt like going back.

I end up finding out a totally chilled surf boyz over next to the market call Arena Cartiente. They have transportation & rental board for $10, and offers lesson as well. Normally in the good day, their van stays as they also give some ride to a couple of local surfers who are very helpful in the water.
Originally I was recommended to go and rent a board at Casa Oros for $9, and transportation separate about $4, but the woman who you need to deal with are very much of surf nazi, and also wants your passport for your board. Their rental policies are very professional (maybe too much?) like if you make a ding, you pay for it $40, if you return your board sandy, they charge you $20.. for such a cheap plastic board which was the only ridable fun board they had. Carlo was not happy about the passport part, and she explained that someone stole $800 worse of surf board from them (maybe if they were nicer?), so her boss makes her take passport in exchange for the rental board. Well, I was not readly to pay for fucking $9USD to this woman who was very rude about surf board policy, and kept on asking me if I knew how to surf and kep on telling me I should take out a sponger, and when we saw her keeping everyone's passport in her desk drower where all the stonner surfer kids hang out at Casa Oros, we got our money back, and ditched. It seams, they just pick up the worst part of surfing culture there... go with local boyz Arena Cartiente, if you can.
A few days later we met an italian who turn local told me his scary accident at Playa Madera where too many die hard surfer goes there (some are begginer) and some kid run over him and broke his board and twised his foot, and alomsot lost one of his eye. Since then, he is done with Playa Madera...


Ecuador | Ruta Del Sol | Ayampe

Playa Tunco

There were no waves when we passed here in mid November. Acoding to a surf instractor Brian who is building his surf camp here, depend of the year, waves start to get better around Nov - Dec... But weather here is always little rainy...Here is Brian getting wet on his daily surf session... the beach of Ayampe was FULL of beach break like this for 5 miles! So I am sure, it would be great to come here to surf in December. It breaks both Left + Right.
P.S. According to Brian, the big surf town, Montanita is full of kooks who drops in and he sees people coming out all bloody all the time... so I guess it means stay away from that.


Peru | Mancora

Playa Tunco

Great soft break filled with average of 10 locals, and 10-15 european beginners. It is the only break in town, in front of hotels... just like Waikiki. Only differences are, 1. Local does not shear, 2. tourists good surfer does not shear, and 3. all the European beginners who throw their 12 ft board around on white water and bumping people... only good thing about this spots are, sunny and since waves breaks very soft and long, you can catch it from anywhere.
There are 2 sets of plastic bottle marks on water. As long as you sit on right of that, you will catch one or two waves... and they are long long rides!


Peru | Huanchaco

Playa Tunco

Wow, I wish I knew about this place before. There are waves for EVERY ONE HERE! Its 5 miles of wave paradise! Just that water is cold and need full suits and booties...
There is Peir in the center of town, and left from the peir is the softest spot. Other than that, from the peir, both 3 miles to the south, and north, there is great break every 100 yrd. Its AMAZING!


Brazil | Praia do Rosa

OK, we went though entire South Brazil coast on the time there were NO SWELLS for 2 weeks!! Anyway, I was only there in this major spot for 2 days, in which both day was super small... but fun ridable waves compared to New York.
I surfed in the front of red flag that is casted from a last cafe on the beach. It breaks both, right + left. Stronger on right. Some kids with short boards were by "da Rock", but looked very rockie...

I rented a board from local oldie who used to be a big wave champ here, and travel to North Shore, Hawaii. (rental board is expensive in Brazil...) and told me about the wave here... (so I did not really see it)
He told me on the big day, the right breaks all the way from "da Point", and can surf all across the bay. This photo only shows 1/3 of the bay... That sound super crazy fun and scary. One day, I shall be back.

Playa Tunco